Day 12, Drive to Amalfi coast

After Matera, Ann (the magnificent) arranged 5 days on the Amalfi Coast.  Specifically at a B&B in Monte Pertuso near Positano.  We were to drive to Salerno, return the rental car and take a ferry to Positano.

There was a bit if a drive to Salerno and a walk between the rental car company and the ferry, so we were on a tight schedule.  The last ferry leaving for Positano was at 3:00 pm.  We arrive at the rental car office at 2:21.  When I mean office, I mean just an office.  There was no garage or lot for multiple cars.  It was just a store front in the middle of a block with a counter.  Ann hops out to talk to the woman behind the counter, I stay with the car.  The conversation in the shop went something like this...

  Ann:   "Where should we park the car we are returning?",
  Rental car lady:  "We are not open until 2:30, I am on break",
  Ann:   "Its 2:21,  I just want to know where to put the car".
  Rental car lady:  "We are not open until 2:30. Leave the car where it is."

We were double parked on a two way street.  Not a main street, but it had enough traffic I was causing some backup.

So, Ann and I stood in the lobby of the office waiting for 9 minutes while the lady chatted on her cell phone, all the while, traffic had to work its way around our car.  At precisely 2:30 she hung up her phone, explained to me in a very curt tone of voice that she'd been on her lunch break and took the keys to the car.  She checked the gas and the car's condition.  I signed some paperwork and we were on our way.  All the time the car sat in the middle of traffic.  

Once I had the paperwork that says I was no longer responsible for the car, we walked over to the ferry.  We purchased two tickets (with luggage) for Positano.  Enclosed are photos of the ferry ride with some of the breath taking views.

Now about our B&B.  The hotels in the town of Positano are very expensive.  Ann (the wise) decided we should stay in a town just up the hill from Positano called Monte Pertuso.  Up the hill in this case is nearly over head.  Our B&B is about 1 km from the port as a crow flies (if he could fly up a 75 degree slope).  The road to our B&B is 6.5 km by a very windy, scary, breathtaking, Italian driving, 2 lane but barely 1 lane, congested with tour buses road.  

Ann (the organized) had arranged for a driver to pick us up and deposit us at our B&B.  After arriving at the Positano pier, a porter told us that our driver would pick us up at the taxi stand at the center of town.  He would take our luggage and meet us there.  Now let me tell you about Positano.  It is a medium size village, with many houses, hotels, a large church, restaurants, shops, beach, piazza... all crammed into a tiny crevasse.  We marched through the town that seemed more like an arab bazaar with shops and all their wares separated by only a few feet, up what seemed like endless flights of steps.  Our luggage and our driver met us, as directed, at the taxi stand.

At the entrance to the B&B we were met by a very nice,  VERY good looking (according to Ann), 20 something young man, named Dmitri, who took both of our 40 lb bags in each arm and sprinted up a set of steps - no exaggeration.  The actual B&B was not on the road but above the road (up 115 very tall steps).  After Ann and I huffed and puffed our way up the steps, Dmitri and Salvatore were waiting to welcome us with a drink and snack, and and told us all the amazing things we could do (all at the bottom of those 115 steps).  Dmitri had already deposited our bags in our room via another set of steps.  I wanted to slap him for being too chipper.  Until we found out he is married with a baby, Ann was trying to think of who to fix him up with.

I should note that this B&B is a perfect arrangement for us.  Even though the town of Positano is a transportation hub and is a center of activity, it is very congested and noisy.  I do think Monte Peruso is a better place for us.  It is a delightful town with a square and church and has a wonderful restaurant that Ann claims is the best meal in Italy.  Its at the bottom of those 115 steps.

I enclose a few photos of our very nice B&B.  A picture of those famous steps (with Monte Pertuso in the background).  More on our adventures on the Amalfi Coast later.

(Editorial comment from "Ann (the wise):  Actually, Bill should take credit for the choice of Le Ghiande B&B.  He pointed out that we could pay for our two days of private drives/tours with the difference between the cost of the two hotels.) 

bill