Day 4, Trying to teach a Philistine new tricks

Today Bill (the philistine) under went an immersion into art history.  Ann (the cultured), arranged for us to visit the the Borghase gallery and gardens in Rome.  A museum was set up in the 17th century by a Cardinal Borghese(thus the name).  He is from a very rich family, with lots of power and connections.  He set up his art collection in a museum for the general public inside a park with beautiful gardens.  We had timed tickets ... with a twist.  After 2 hours they chase everybody out of the museum to let in the next group.  It was weird since Ann and I tend to dilly daly our way through these things.  We had just started on the 2nd floor when they made an announcement and guards started pointing everyone towards the door.  On one hand it was nice because the crowd was limited, you never had to push your way into a crowd to get a peek at a world renowned 4"x5" painting.  On the other it was sort of disconcerting being told "Here is your hat and there is the door".

Here is a short summary of what I learned:  
The Classical or Helenistic Sculpture is usually someone standing up, looking stiff and self important, usually of a king or emperor.  The faces are emotionless or stone face (forgive the pun).  The second type is Baroque where the sculpture has motion or emotion.  This type usually is showing some kind of violent act.  The other thing I learned, was a lesson on perspective.  On the ceiling the paintings had a 3D feeling.  Usually with little cherubs or people peering over a ledge staring at you, legs dangling over the ledge or shadows as if the sun was over head.  One had a group of naked guys holding up an even higher ceiling.  Tough work if you can find it.  It looks like they were even giving a few of the guys time off for good behavior.

I was getting excited.  "Ann I think I am getting this", I said.  "Check this out.  Many of these guys have love handles.  The artist is trying to represent the average male form".  "No, Bill", Ann corrects, "you may have love handles, they have muscles".  Sheepishly I return to study the female form.  I am much better at that.

Speaking of the female form, there was one female nude who happen to be Napoleon's sister who was married to a Borghase.  It was scandalous to have a princess pose in the nude.  Another scandal ( that doesn't get as much attention from the moral police) is one day Napoleon showed up and asked to buy a lot of the art in this gallery.  The French army was massing on the Italian Border encouraging the sale at bargain basement prices.  You can see much of the Borghase art at the Louvres. 

Enclosed is some of the art (they allowed pictures, no flash).  One of Napoleon's sister.  2 of the guy with love handles and a tail (I labeled it "for want of a fig leaf").  Others:  "Waiting for the check for the Last Supper", "Asking a girl out on a date", "Guy wrestling fish" and "How to have a party". A few are of the ceiling showing perspective.  The remaining are of the gardens.

We had a lovely dinner at the Pantheon.  This has to be the most romantic night place in Rome.

bill